Agra

January 28, 2012

The Taj

Hazy morning. Sunrise at the Taj. Dropped off at the ticket booth then transferred by Disneyland-like tram mobile to a promenade lined with stalls (mostly closed this early). We walk to the queue at the entrance where we wait for the 7am opening.  Mickey brings us tea to sip. The morning is chilly. Women in one line, men in another. Security includes a lack luster pat down.  We wait in anticipation and we are not disappointed.

Entrance is through a massive gate. The Taj is framed in its arch. We can feel it pulling us through the opening and then we are face to face. And it is a wonder of the world. The white marble inlaid with semi-precious jewels is smooth, glowing, iridescent, compelling. We watch in silence as the sun rises and the light changes and as it does the Taj glimmers and shines.

Taj Gate

View Through the Gate

The architect was Turkish and the influence is Persian. Shah Jahan told the architect he could not use elements of the design ever again or he would be put to death. The architect objected saying he would never be able to design anything again for fear and asked to become part of the court where he lived out his life. The central dome is 115 feet high and is topped with a lotus design. It took 20,000 workers, and 1000 elephants 22 years to complete.

Pre-dawn Taj

We pause on the steps of the gate. A long corridor of symmetrical green belts and water pools leads from the gate to the tomb itself. The entire complex is 42 acres.

Princess Di Bench

Claire touches tip of Taj

“Love is blind but marriage opens the eyes”. But not in this case, Shah Jahan was grief stricken
when his wife, Mumtaz died during the birth of their 14^th child. This love is immortalized and the building that commemorates it has become the symbol of India.

 A Japanese man with the entire Taj complex at his disposal chooses to snap photos of Claire. A true connoisseur of great beauty.

Taj was built for Shah Jahan's second wife. They are both buried there. The emperor was entombed near Mumtaz in the central mausoleum directly under the dome of the Taj Mahal When we enter the actual mausoleum two marble tombs can be seen through latticed screens. One is Mumtaz in the center and one is Shah Jahan slightly to her side. No photos are allowed, but tourists are snapping them left and right. I snap a couple and then guards with shrieking whistles blowing arrive to stop the rule breaking.

Through the Lattice

Unauthorized Photo

The exterior of the tomb/room is replete with passages from the Koran written in calligraphy inlaid in jasper. Each stroke is a single piece of jasper.

To the side of the Taj platform are tall towers where lovers from different castes have thrown themselves to the ground. Caste laws kept them from being together so they chose death over being separated.

Lover's Leap

Mickey leads us out to view the mosque which is still used every Friday (which means the Taj is closed to visitors one day a week) and then through a red sandstone passageway of multiple squared arches. A peaceful route back to the street where the stalls are in full bustle and the Disney tram spirits us back to Sanjay waiting by the car. We leave an ethereal world to rejoin the practical world.

Mosque at the Taj Complex

Exiting the Taj Complex

Back to the hotel where a beautiful buffet breakfast is still being served, (but not as beautiful as Le Meridien's).  I take Claire outside after breakfast so Jake and Lesley can finish. By the time they come outside we are surrounded by an Indian family of 6⁺who are admiring her. Photographs all around.

Making Friends

Sanjay surprises Claire with an Indian doll. When a button is pressed lights flash and discordant music starts to play. Claire takes one look juts out her lower lip and starts to howl. Good intentions.

Before we leave Agra, Mickey asks if we would like to see artists creating inlays. We’re game and we’re taken to a demonstration, offered tea and led into the showroom. Again Lesley and Jake are in need of a quality souvenir. They purchase a square plate inlaid with flowers of mother of pearl, turquoise and other shining stones.That tea again! Claire is given a gift of a tiny marble elephant inlaid with tinier flowers and designs. The Claire Effect at work.

Inlay Process