Alleppey to Kochi

February 5, 2012

Alleppey to Kochi

This morning our crew of three wearing longhis and nothing else is standing waist deep in the lake, bathing. I really try to be discreet, but they are scouring and scrubbing with such vigor they are hard to ignore and I end up staring. They wring out bright cloths in the lake water and wash themselves with great enthusiasm.  I do politely refrain from taking any photos.

Breakfast, (plain omelets, fresh fruit, toast, pineapple juice, couscous with veggies) and then we are on our way again. As we glide out of our overnight cove we curve around a small finger of land and start to navigate along a new piece of coastline. Arrayed along the shore are the Chinese fishing nets I’ve been eager to see. This “technology” was introduced in the time of Kublai Khan. It must still be efficient because there are many, many of them in use today. The nets are huge airy contraptions of mesh and wood. They are raised and lowered using levers and weights. We watch a fisherman lower one giant web until it pools and then sinks. As we float along we see the process repeated over and over. Would be wonderful to witness them hauled up later in the day with the fish tangled in their webbing.

Chinese Fishing Net

We disembark in Alleppey, the Venice of the East, but we don’t stay. A driver awaits to return us to Kochi. His car is distinctive because he’s using green astro-turf as floor mats. Claire’s pit crew (Lesley and Jake) get her changed and ready in her car seat. They work over her in practiced syncopation. 

Leaving Our Boat in Alleppey

We hear and see lots of temple activity on this short ride. We pass two temple processions marching along the road complete with elephants.  Drummers lead the way followed by a contingent of kids who break out in smiles and waves when they see my camera. The temples are crowded with congregants and music blares from loud speakers.

Temple Procession

Kochi floats on the lip of the Arabian Sea. It’s made up of several islands all connected by bridges and ferry boats. It is known for its spice and fish marketplaces. We get out of the car to stretch our legs near a long beachfront and are snared by the shopping stalls. We purchase a few trinkets, really just a few, and Claire is given a carved coconut elephant from one of the approving vendors. When I see an interesting necklace and announce “this is really cool”, Lesley reminds me that the cooler I proclaim it to be, the more the price will rise. I’m such an amateur.

Shopper's Helper

We make a quick visit to St Francis Church where Vasco de Gama was buried. Past tense, because he has been taken back to Portugal. He was the first to sail around Africa to Asia. Kerala has a large population of Christians perhaps because of the work of the apostle Thomas (doubting Thomas) who lived in India and was martyred in Madras, (now Chennai where a basilica stands in his honor).

St Francis Church

We stop in an area of Kochi known as Jew Town. This community dates to the second century. Jews fled here to escape persecution by the Romans. It is now a tourist magnet sporting antique shops and restaurants. We enjoy a fresh lime soda: a glass holding a jigger of fresh lime juice served with a bottle of cold sparkling water. Carbonated water plus lime juice = fresh lime soda.  I’ll try this at home too. We share our table with Ruth, a young woman from the Canary Islands traveling through India alone. She and a German woman have traveled together for the last couple of weeks but will soon separate to pursue their individual itineraries. We learn a Spanish word coined especially for chubby babies, “rollito”. Who could have inspired such a description? 

Pardesi Synagogue does not allow photographs. The signs say they will confiscate your camera if you take a picture, so no illegal photos here.  I do notice there are synagogue postcards for sale so somebody has been snapping snaps.  Inside, the floor is paved with blue Cantonese hand painted ceramic tiles which tell a love story between a Chinese princess and a commoner, a reminder that this was a cosmopolitan city visited in ancient times by traders from around the globe. The Torah sits surrounded by a six foot tall brass railing formed into the shape of a crown, a gift from the king signifying that he had promised the Jewish community his protection.

Mattancherry Palace, now a museum, is within walking distance. It’s built in Kerala style with two white -washed stories and a tiled roof. It holds a few royal relics but of the most interest are the smooth opulent frescoes on the crumbling walls depicting scenes from the Ramayana. They were painted using vegetable pigments and sealed with oil and pine resin. We take turns going in because a steep flight of stairs would be difficult for Claire’s stroller. When we come out Jake is encircled by the Claire Effect. Jake and Lesley go back inside together and I enjoy the friendly people who approach. They tickle her cheek and say “baby, baby, baby” then hold out their hands and say “come” wanting to hold her. She flirts right back, but stays in familiar arms.

The Claire Effect continues at the airport. As we walk away from the check-in counter the ticket agents, who are adult men, grin and wave at Claire like two school boys.