Kerala

February 3, 2012

Kerala

Another early morning flight, this one to the Indian state of Kerala. As we’re settling into our JetAir seats, three bearded long-haired men who could play terrorists in an American-made movie stop to cluck and coo at Claire before they pass down the aisle to buckle in. Stereotypes flutter to the floor behind them.

The airport in Kochi, (alternatively known as Cochin), is built in a colonial style. We disembark onto the tarmac and enjoy the brief sun-kissed stroll into the handsome building. Our driver meets us, loads our luggage and barely says a word for the hour plus drive to our Kumarakom destination.  We miss Sanjay.

We pass through Kochi, a city we will explore later. Our drive takes us on rural side roads, past fruit and vegetable markets, and small villages framed in tropical foliage. Kerala is known as the Garden of Eden, and it is abundant with luxuriant vegetation.

We’re staying at the Zuri Resort, Zuri meaning ‘far beyond expectations’ in Swahili. It is fenced and gated.  When we arrive, the gates are closed. A guard checks a list and if your name is on it the gates are opened. After consultation, we are in! The sari-clad staff greets us in the open-air lobby with cool washcloths and coconut shells sporting straws. We settle into the cushioned rattan couches and relax. Most agreeable. 

Welcome Coconuts

Soon, the Claire Effect takes over and she is the center of attention. We are learning what it’s like to be a member of a celebrity entourage. Once checked in we are whisked via golf cart through the manicured grounds to our room over-looking the lagoon. Nap time and not just for Claire.

Welcome Committee

Afternoon tea is served in the garden. Tea, of course, miniature scones with clotted cream, coconut cookies and slices of carrot cake are offered. After tea we enjoy an hour-long boat tour of the Kuamarakom lagoon, the lake breeze flickering the ties of Claire’s sun hat.

Tea in the Garden

The Lagoon

Boat Ride

Mehendi Friends

We sit down to dinner on the restaurant’s deck but move inside when the program of music played on traditional musical instruments begins in the adjacent amphitheater and Claire voices an objection to the strident chords.  The buffet has many tempting choices. Our favorites are the hummus eaten with a crisp nutty cracker, the dark, creamy, rich daal that must have simmered for days scooped up with the charred, warm, buttered naan, the potatoes roasted with ginger and garlic, the cashew nut fish, the curry chicken, beet salad with oranges, sliced cucumbers and fresh tomatoes arranged in a tower and for dessert many sweets, but I am most impressed by the fruited yogurt. The fruit is pomegranate seeds. My deep gratitude and appreciation goes to whoever seeded and separated those pomegranates.  I will try this at home.

Jake and Lesley go out for a night-cap in the bar overlooking the water. Claire and I are happily in for the night.

Lesley reports seeing a small green lizard pop its head out of the air conditioner vent just as she’s going to sleep.